does anyone have a larger rectangular cooler they may be willing to donate to CHAOS to make a jockey box.? this will allow for us to serve cool beer while serving anywhere away from the keezer.
please let me know.
thanks in advance...
does anyone have a larger rectangular cooler they may be willing to donate to CHAOS to make a jockey box.? this will allow for us to serve cool beer while serving anywhere away from the keezer.
please let me know.
thanks in advance...
I like the fancy calculations; they work.
Have we gotten a cooler yet? Does one like my red mash tun fit the bill of what we're looking for? Or, does the squarer, deeper type (like the blue one we made at the workshop last summer) work better?
http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/for/2877096073.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/for/2869591637.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/spo/2864952976.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/spo/2835260912.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/spo/2869957859.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/for/2866836285.html
David Williams said:
David, each coil is 20" long and how wide?
oh about the cooler...I don't care where it comes from...just need one at this point.
Stainless steel is used because of its energy transfer qualities in addition to its food grade properties. Copper can not be used because finished beer is too acidic. If you use copper, you can potentialy cause copper poisoning. Copper is okay for water...but not for beer. I've read around about using tubing on forums. People have tried very thin walled tubing. The overall consensus is that tubing does not cool the beer under operating parameters. (ie serving beer where you are pulling draft after draft). The tubing for ice machines will not work because of pressure issues. The smaller the diameter the more resistance is required. This translates into higher pressures from your regulator. You can use a formula to determine this:
P = L * R + H ÷ 2
P = Pressure in the keg in PSI
L = Line Run in feet
R = Resistance of the line per foot
H = Height from the middle of the keg to the tap/faucet in feet
in the small diameter ice machine tubing scenario...you need a lot of it to allow more than 12 ounces to sit in the line...even then the heater transfer has been reported as not that great. I have no idea what the resistance of the tubing is...but here is an example using 3/16" hose (standard size beer line with a resistance of 2; ice machine tubing is much much higher resistance when comparing diameter size)
P = L * R + H ÷ 2 .......if we plug in a resistance of 2 and height....lets say 2 ft. between keg and tap, and 50 ft of tubing (I would think that you would need more than 50 though to get beer cold quick enough). This gives us a required operating pressure of 100 PSI.....more than most regulators can handle and dangerously close to the max operating pressure for a corny keg.
P = 50 * 2 + 2 / 2
P=100
Here are others which might work:
http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/for/2866836285.html
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/for/2858835183.html
I'm certain David has researched/explored designs for jockey boxes. There's probably a reason he/they call for metal coils instead of plastic.
If we do a second jockey box for whatever reason, perhaps we can experiment with materials then....
That will extend the length, though. We might be in the same dilemma length-wise once they're "overlapped".
that might work...
18.5" no dice
each coil is 10 inches wide....and there are two...so 20 inch or more will do.
What is the width of these coils again? I have a cooler, but I'm pretty sure it is too small. I will double check.
anyone, anyone?