I was wondering if we might evaluate mash tuns for their efficacy.
I think the two areas of discussion are:
- Body: square box, rectangular box, or can? Other?
- Guts: PVC manifold, SS braid, SS braid with spring inside, false bottom? Other?
I will be putting a mash tun workshop on the events page soon but wanted to discuss the most efficient construction so that I may be the parts to make an optimal tun.
I think it depends on your metric. My square cooler is great because it's got a 50 qt capacity (I can do 30+ lbs grain bills) and holds heat incredibly well. It also only cost me $30 total (weldless fitting, ball valve, and inexpensive stainless braid) because I already owned it and it already had a hole in it. Now that I have its idiosyncracies figured out, I get mid-to-high 70s efficiency with it and the house malt mill.
On the other hand, the built-in hole's placement isn't completely optimal, as anyone who's seen me use it and have to precariously prop it up using a 2x4 can attest. It also doesn't always drain super fast, whether because of the braid or because of the square shape. I used lucas's MLT with the false bottom a couple of weeks ago and my lautering went soooooo much faster.
If I were starting from scratch, I think the round cooler plus braid/false bottom would be the way to go. One of the things I really love about home brewing though is that you can use what you have, and chances are you'll still make beer. For the purposes of a workshop, I think I would do the round cooler and braid because it's the simplest and cheapest, although lucas's false bottom was apparently pretty inexpensive.
-Adam
I've heard theories - but have not seen proof - that cylindrical coolers are better than square ones because of how the heat is distributed (it was explained that the corners on a square or rectangular one are cooler than the center whereas a cylindrical ones all the heat radiates/distributes evenly).
Pete was also raving about his false bottom (heh, heh, heh) which is another reason I posted.
Keep the ideas comin'! I want to build something good.
Dave's mash tun is the best one in the brewhouse. All the other ones pass grain through, and you have to filter your run off. Circular is better, the corners of square mash tuns are cooler than the center.
Just as a reference, the false bottom on mine was $30 and it was worth every penny, quarter, AND dollar.
Oh... my... god. Why haven't we done this? http://thechive.com/2013/09/17/guys-rig-up-buddies-plumbing-with-beer-wh...
In terms of filtering, Lucas, how does it work?
@Jim,
Based on the one time I have used Lucas's false bottom vs. a steel braid, the false bottom lets in a bit more grain bits. I'm sure this could be reduced by better lautering in order to properly set the grain bed. However, I didn't mind a bit more tiny grain particles getting into my wort. It certainly wasn't enough to get any tannin extraction (that I have yet noticed), and most/all of the grain particles end up settling out as trub, either in the kettle or the fermenter.
Given how much faster the false bottom lauters, I would say that it's worth the trade off.
-Adam
I'm thinking cylindrical with false bottom is the way to go for the workshop.
Pete, Lucas (the two people I know who have false bottoms), can you please e-mail me a list of parts (with links if possible) so I can start gathering materials?
Thanks for all your feedback, guys! Much appreciated!
Jim
Heh, heh, heh. "The two people I know who have false bottoms"...heh, heh, heh...
Just buy every listed in this, you can try to part it out speperatly, I have, but it all works out to about the same price. Home Depot brass fitting are no cheaper than norther brewers, dont cheap out and by smaller diamter version of this stuff, your flow rates get reduced and the draining procees takes much longer than needed. Dont buy plastic as you will have to replace them in a year. (these are all mistakes I have made, I have rebuilt my tun 3-4 times)
http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/all-grain-system-mash-tun-10-gallons.html
You can get a Stainless Steel verson of the fitttings here for a little less:
http://weldlessfittings.com/coolerfittings.html
Its best to hook up the false bottom with a hose instead of SS or copper as its flexibility allow for easier cleaning
Great, thanks, James!
Plus we get 5% at Northern Brewer for what it's worth....
By vorlaufing a little more wort, the grain bed will settle nicely and that will take care of the grain particles
"Give a man a beer, and he will waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he will waste a lifetime!" Bill Owen
FWIW, I got my fittings from bargainfittings.com, and found the cost and service couldn't be beat.
Yeah, I'm a little confused on price. I'm looking at the NB link, James, and I see that the 10 gal Rubbermaid cooler alone is $87; I'm also looking at the Home Depot website and I see a 10 gal Rubbermaid cooler for $45.
I was just talking about the fittings. You might be able to get a flase bottom cheaper on amazon or ebay, but keep it at 12". Maybe instead of buying a new cooler someone would donate their cooler and it could be retrofitted. One of those 9 coolers in the brewhouse has to have less than optimal parts.
I have a set of the 5gal Cooler HLT/MashTun w/ false bottom from these guys:
http://www.homebrewing.org/10-Gallon-Converted-Igloo-Cooler-Mash-Tun-Wit...
I've been very pleased.
--james
they also sell DIY Parts kit:
http://www.homebrewing.org/12-Stainless-Steel-Domed-False-Bottom_p_1058....
--james
I would donate my cooler but it's got marker all over it from scratching out my name (anyone interested in spray-painting a cooler? Maybe we can put a CHAOS logo on the top?). Someone's smashed my SS braid to death with the mash paddle; luckily I stuck a spring in there to keep it stiff and elongated so it's still functional.
Jim, I have some chemicals that might be able to clean 95% of that off. Can we meet by Lane Tech some time?
I'm coming from Irving Pk & Pulaski. Bring the cooler ;)
--james
These were "permanent" sharpies? Will that still take it off, James?
Let me take a look at the calendar for next week; see when I can make this happen.
It should, can't help to try. At most there might be some very light hazy smudging at the end. I'm happy to put some elbow grease into it. Or I'll buy it off of you for a spare for $20 towards your new Mashtun. I also have a weldless valve assembly that you can reverse engineer at Home Depot. It was a spare from my 5gal Mash Tun.
--james
Okay, thanks! I'll be in touch shortly with a rendez-vous date.