How about Hop Works-hop? I would be interested in this unless I am too late to the party. And I'll have to see what I can get before I determine what hop I use.
After diong some research, I'm gonna call Matueka hops for mine. Joe, a saw that you mentioned Wakatu, which I've heard is very similar. Here's the list I was able to puzzle out:
For the sake of having enough time to brew this beer, let’s do what ICBG did with the Replicale event.
We all use the same grain bill and yeast strain (1056) which has already been established, no other ingredients are allowed.
The brew also needs to be 60 IBU and one hop variety.
You can be as creative as you want with the beer which will also showcase your talent as a brewer and use a hopstand, dry hop or any way you feel that will showcase that hop.
"Give a man a beer, and he will waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he will waste a lifetime!" Bill Owen
Would there be any value in someone brewing an all malt/no hop batch or two so drinkers can see what the same grain bill tastes like with no hops and then take a sip of the same grain bill with hops?
Jim, I think having a hop-less version would be a great addition to this project. I also like the renaming to incorporate WorksHOP into it, to showcase our brewing prowess AND wit. So just to be clear, this is the grain bill:
12lbs U.S. 2-row
.5 lbs Crystal 40L
Mash @ 148 for 75 min
Wyeast 1056
With the option to do the hop additions any way we would like as long as there are 60 IBUs and use only one hop, an example being:
If you do the "no-hop" version, you might want to still add a very small (~10-15 IBUs) 60 minute addition of a neutral bittering hop like galena, just so the beer still tastes like beer. I also think that hops act as a bit of a preservative and help keep beer from spoiling, so if you go totally without hops, you'll want to be extra careful about sanitation. Either way, I think this should be a fascinating experiment.
@ Jim, that's a brilliant idea, thanks for the input and for contributing, I think that will really add a lot to the experience for everyone, but for newer beer drinkers/afficianados especially.
@ John, that's correct.
@ ChiRocky Hop on in, let us know what hop your choosing.
@ Stevenlane, I really favor the Hop School name, it's my intention to turn this into a recurring theme and having a "school" of some variety at all future events if it pleases the club and goes well, this time the subject is hops, for the summer event we could do another round of hops, in the fall and winter events we can use yeast and malt as the variables, hosting a yeast school, malt school, etc. and see where all of this leads. I think having the continuity in the title is important and will aid in marketing.
@everyone thanks so much for the enthusiasm for this project, it went from just an idea to a reality very quickly. I'm real excited to taste them all, and share them. This is really exciting. Thanks.
I will be posting an All-grain brewing class later today. The class will be held on April 5th. I'd like to tie this into the class. It should be enought time to have all the class brews ready for cinco. Pete and Josh will most likely be helping out. The plan is to do 4 batches of single hop beer, following the guidelines set here. The students will brew and then we will have each batch on tap at the party. The trial membership should still be in good standing for them to also attend the party.
So far, this is what I see in regards to varietals that have been indicated:
1. Joe: Mosaic
2. Pete: Citra ( Batch 1 of All-grain Class)
3. Bill: Galaxy
4. Kyle: Nelson Sauvin
5. John G: Wakatu
6. Josh S: Amarillo (Batch 2 of All-Grain Class)
7. David: Bavarian Mandarina (Batch 3 of All-Grain Class)
8. Nancy: Pacific Jade
9. David: Huell Melon (Batch 4 of All-Grain Class)
David, That's a great idea getting those newer brewers involved and excited about being a part of the club! I love it!
I think at this point we should lock it up, as we have 9 people brewing, 10 actually because Jim's hopless control batch. That's 50 gallons for the party. I love the enthusiasm and support, but I just want to make sure we don't take over the whole party with it :)
So, i've been catching up on this thread and reading through what you guys are discussing about the hops. This is where I have some differing oppinnions.
I think that the grain bill is fine (although I would have liked to see a lower crystal malt like C20...but C40 is fine...its only 8 ounces).
As for the Hops, I think that having a common technique and adjusting for IBU is the way to go. I also think dry hopping should definitely be done, but for only 3 days. This will avoid any vegetal flavors. I also think everyone should cold crash. Is the Lager Chamber up and running?
I also think that 60 IBU is way too high of a total target if the predicted OG is only 1.046. I'd say 40 IBU is more appropriate. The emphasis should be on hop flavor and aroma....not on pure bitterness.
Hi all. So I brewed this Wednesday and it all went well (except I may only have 4 total gallons at the end of the day). I added enough Wakatu for 60 IBUs, but I won't be upset if it changes to 40. I've never cold crashed but it sounds like I move my primary bucket to a location that's 40 degrees. So my questions, if we are cold crashing, is
1. How long do I keep it in primary before moving it to a cold crashing environment (is it 40 degrees)?
2. How long do I cold crash for?
3. Do I bottle it right away or let it get back to 70 degrees?
4. Do I bottle condition at 40 or 70 degrees?
David, as a new brewer I think that's an awesome idea and would've loved to attend, but I'll be out of town.
I would do it 3 days before cold crashing. You can keep the beer in the same vessel the entire 21 days, especially if cold crashing.
An alternate method would be to dryhop 50% at 11 days, transfer to secondary at 14, dry hop again in the secondary and cold crash at 17 days, rack to bottling at 21 days.
Let fermentation go until its done...take readings using a hydrometer. You'd be surprised how quick most fermentations complete. A force fermentation test or quick ferment is the best way to predict where your beer will stop fermenting. But, you can just make sure that your gravity isnt moving over 2-3 consecutive days...thats a good indication that it is done.
I'd add the dry hops once your fermentation is done (although I regularly add it when I'm 2-4 points away from finishing too). Let it sit for 3 days, then cold crash by moving it to a cold place like our Lager Chamber or a fridge. With a 5 gallon volume you should get good clarity and sedimentation in 24 hours. You can probably go longer to get more clarity. But when considering your crash duration, make sure that days crashing + days Dry hopped, doesn't exceed 7 days total. This will help avoid vegetal flavors. There are some really great white papers that show that hop aroma and IBU fall off after less than 2 days of dry hopping, making a strong argument for shorter dry hopping times. The longer it sets the more vegetal quality you are gonna get.
When you rack, try and leave as much sediment behind as possible.
Temp for bottling shouldn't matter too much. If you store the bottles at the appropriate temp for bottle conditioning, the yeast will become active again and turn that priming sugar into co2. Room temp is what your bottles should be stored at. CHAOS fermentation room works too.
This is off topic for the thread, so I'll try to be brief: I don't think the lager fermenter should be used for cold crashing, unless fermenters are clearly marked as "cold crashing" and the owner of the fermenter will not be displeased in the event their fermenter is moved by someone who needs the room to ferment a lager in the lager fermenter.
It was last time I was there. Assuming that noone has unplugged it or otherwise messed with the controller, this time of year it won't be much colder than the typical brewhouse temperature; it's set for 49 degrees, which also makes it about 10-15 degrees too warm for cold-crashing, frankly. If it's empty or mostly-empty, it's fine for people to stick their fermenters in there to cold-crash, but it should be, first and foremost, for fermenting lagers, IMO.
Bill it as 'Hop Flights' ...?...
need something catchier than 'hop expo'
too McCormick Place...
We had been tossing around the name Hop School, which is admittedly better than Hop Expo.
How about Hop Works-hop? I would be interested in this unless I am too late to the party. And I'll have to see what I can get before I determine what hop I use.
After diong some research, I'm gonna call Matueka hops for mine. Joe, a saw that you mentioned Wakatu, which I've heard is very similar. Here's the list I was able to puzzle out:
Joe: Mosaic
Pete: Citra
Bill: Galaxy
Kyle: Nelson Sauvin
Jeff: ?
John G: Motueka
Palisades is a hop I usually group with all those.
I don't know if I'll be able to brew for this one, but I have some pacific jade hops I'd be happy to donate if anyone wanted to use them.
I'm mot going to have time to brew for this. Rich, want to take my place?
Guys
For the sake of having enough time to brew this beer, let’s do what ICBG did with the Replicale event.
We all use the same grain bill and yeast strain (1056) which has already been established, no other ingredients are allowed.
The brew also needs to be 60 IBU and one hop variety.
You can be as creative as you want with the beer which will also showcase your talent as a brewer and use a hopstand, dry hop or any way you feel that will showcase that hop.
"Give a man a beer, and he will waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he will waste a lifetime!" Bill Owen
Rich, you are more than welcome to join us. Pick a hop and get on it.
"Give a man a beer, and he will waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he will waste a lifetime!" Bill Owen
Would there be any value in someone brewing an all malt/no hop batch or two so drinkers can see what the same grain bill tastes like with no hops and then take a sip of the same grain bill with hops?
Jim
Thats sounds pretty interesting. You wanna brew it.
"Give a man a beer, and he will waste an hour. Teach a man to brew, and he will waste a lifetime!" Bill Owen
If there's more concensus that it would be of value, I'll brew it.
I think that would be really interesting. You could also have a French press or two and Randell some hops into the beer on the spot too
I think you should brew it, Jim.
Jim, I think having a hop-less version would be a great addition to this project. I also like the renaming to incorporate WorksHOP into it, to showcase our brewing prowess AND wit. So just to be clear, this is the grain bill:
12lbs U.S. 2-row
.5 lbs Crystal 40L
Mash @ 148 for 75 min
Wyeast 1056
With the option to do the hop additions any way we would like as long as there are 60 IBUs and use only one hop, an example being:
60 min hop addition to equal approximately 60 IBU
3 oz. Hops at flameout
2 oz. Dry hop in the secondary for exactly 5 days
Thanks!
John
Jim,
If you do the "no-hop" version, you might want to still add a very small (~10-15 IBUs) 60 minute addition of a neutral bittering hop like galena, just so the beer still tastes like beer. I also think that hops act as a bit of a preservative and help keep beer from spoiling, so if you go totally without hops, you'll want to be extra careful about sanitation. Either way, I think this should be a fascinating experiment.
Roger that. I'm leaning toward the no-hop/high-sanitzation route. If this is intended to be a "control" batch, it might as well be one.
@ Jim, that's a brilliant idea, thanks for the input and for contributing, I think that will really add a lot to the experience for everyone, but for newer beer drinkers/afficianados especially.
@ John, that's correct.
@ ChiRocky Hop on in, let us know what hop your choosing.
@ Stevenlane, I really favor the Hop School name, it's my intention to turn this into a recurring theme and having a "school" of some variety at all future events if it pleases the club and goes well, this time the subject is hops, for the summer event we could do another round of hops, in the fall and winter events we can use yeast and malt as the variables, hosting a yeast school, malt school, etc. and see where all of this leads. I think having the continuity in the title is important and will aid in marketing.
@everyone thanks so much for the enthusiasm for this project, it went from just an idea to a reality very quickly. I'm real excited to taste them all, and share them. This is really exciting. Thanks.
Once we get the details ironed out, I'll update our National Homebrew Day listing on the AHA website:
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/aha-events/national-homebrew-day/big-brew-events/?site_id=1275
They also have these pdfs to display if we like:
http://www.homebrewersassociation.org/wp-content/uploads/Ingredient-Signs.pdf
I'll let you know by Monday. I'm brewing this weekend and will pick a hop then. Thanks!
I'm going to brew this tonight. Brew Camp was out of Motueka, so I'm now using Wakatu!
John
Im in on this ill be using amarillo
I call Pacific Jade.
I will be posting an All-grain brewing class later today. The class will be held on April 5th. I'd like to tie this into the class. It should be enought time to have all the class brews ready for cinco. Pete and Josh will most likely be helping out. The plan is to do 4 batches of single hop beer, following the guidelines set here. The students will brew and then we will have each batch on tap at the party. The trial membership should still be in good standing for them to also attend the party.
So far, this is what I see in regards to varietals that have been indicated:
1. Joe: Mosaic
2. Pete: Citra ( Batch 1 of All-grain Class)
3. Bill: Galaxy
4. Kyle: Nelson Sauvin
5. John G: Wakatu
6. Josh S: Amarillo (Batch 2 of All-Grain Class)
7. David: Bavarian Mandarina (Batch 3 of All-Grain Class)
8. Nancy: Pacific Jade
9. David: Huell Melon (Batch 4 of All-Grain Class)
David, That's a great idea getting those newer brewers involved and excited about being a part of the club! I love it!
I think at this point we should lock it up, as we have 9 people brewing, 10 actually because Jim's hopless control batch. That's 50 gallons for the party. I love the enthusiasm and support, but I just want to make sure we don't take over the whole party with it :)
Hop Schoolers, I created a separate section on the Cerveza beer list for you guys. Please add your beer to the list when you get a chance.
So, i've been catching up on this thread and reading through what you guys are discussing about the hops. This is where I have some differing oppinnions.
I think that the grain bill is fine (although I would have liked to see a lower crystal malt like C20...but C40 is fine...its only 8 ounces).
As for the Hops, I think that having a common technique and adjusting for IBU is the way to go. I also think dry hopping should definitely be done, but for only 3 days. This will avoid any vegetal flavors. I also think everyone should cold crash. Is the Lager Chamber up and running?
I also think that 60 IBU is way too high of a total target if the predicted OG is only 1.046. I'd say 40 IBU is more appropriate. The emphasis should be on hop flavor and aroma....not on pure bitterness.
Hi all. So I brewed this Wednesday and it all went well (except I may only have 4 total gallons at the end of the day). I added enough Wakatu for 60 IBUs, but I won't be upset if it changes to 40. I've never cold crashed but it sounds like I move my primary bucket to a location that's 40 degrees. So my questions, if we are cold crashing, is
1. How long do I keep it in primary before moving it to a cold crashing environment (is it 40 degrees)?
2. How long do I cold crash for?
3. Do I bottle it right away or let it get back to 70 degrees?
4. Do I bottle condition at 40 or 70 degrees?
David, as a new brewer I think that's an awesome idea and would've loved to attend, but I'll be out of town.
John
1. 14 days is about right
2. 7 days would be fine
3. Right away is ok
4. 65-75 degress if you requre the yeast to make the CO2
Thank you! I also forgot to ask where the dry hop goes into this?
I would do it 3 days before cold crashing. You can keep the beer in the same vessel the entire 21 days, especially if cold crashing.
An alternate method would be to dryhop 50% at 11 days, transfer to secondary at 14, dry hop again in the secondary and cold crash at 17 days, rack to bottling at 21 days.
The schedule has a lot of flex too. Cold crashing could be only 2 days, primary could get down to 10 days.
Let fermentation go until its done...take readings using a hydrometer. You'd be surprised how quick most fermentations complete. A force fermentation test or quick ferment is the best way to predict where your beer will stop fermenting. But, you can just make sure that your gravity isnt moving over 2-3 consecutive days...thats a good indication that it is done.
I'd add the dry hops once your fermentation is done (although I regularly add it when I'm 2-4 points away from finishing too). Let it sit for 3 days, then cold crash by moving it to a cold place like our Lager Chamber or a fridge. With a 5 gallon volume you should get good clarity and sedimentation in 24 hours. You can probably go longer to get more clarity. But when considering your crash duration, make sure that days crashing + days Dry hopped, doesn't exceed 7 days total. This will help avoid vegetal flavors. There are some really great white papers that show that hop aroma and IBU fall off after less than 2 days of dry hopping, making a strong argument for shorter dry hopping times. The longer it sets the more vegetal quality you are gonna get.
When you rack, try and leave as much sediment behind as possible.
Temp for bottling shouldn't matter too much. If you store the bottles at the appropriate temp for bottle conditioning, the yeast will become active again and turn that priming sugar into co2. Room temp is what your bottles should be stored at. CHAOS fermentation room works too.
This is off topic for the thread, so I'll try to be brief: I don't think the lager fermenter should be used for cold crashing, unless fermenters are clearly marked as "cold crashing" and the owner of the fermenter will not be displeased in the event their fermenter is moved by someone who needs the room to ferment a lager in the lager fermenter.
Is the Lager Chamber even on? I stuck my hand in there the other day and it wasnt all that cold...and it was just about empty.
It was last time I was there. Assuming that noone has unplugged it or otherwise messed with the controller, this time of year it won't be much colder than the typical brewhouse temperature; it's set for 49 degrees, which also makes it about 10-15 degrees too warm for cold-crashing, frankly. If it's empty or mostly-empty, it's fine for people to stick their fermenters in there to cold-crash, but it should be, first and foremost, for fermenting lagers, IMO.
I'm brewing tomorrow and I am brewing for 60 IBUs with Galaxy hops, end of story.
The emperor is not as forgiving as i am
Bill, how did the brew go? Did u hit your numbers? Also u stated 1.046 in this thread earlier for og. Is that right?
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